Black Hair is Fragile Hair

Black Hair is Fragile Hair
Nowadays, there are masses of websites springing up offering black hair care advice from washing, to twisting, to relaxing. Suddenly everyone is an expert. We find product junkies telling us what to buy.  Fanatics blogging about their hair care regimes. Books urging you to spend.  Groups urging you to share. It is never ending and no wonder we get confused.

Everyone’s mane is different.  Factors such as lifestyle, health, genetics, environment, porosity will all affect the end results. Simply put, what works for me will not necessarily work for you. So if you want to save time and money, read on. I will tell you the facts about highly textured afro hair according to the research.

The Research
Dating back to the earliest recordings of black hair care, a variety of methods for managing this hair were adopted. Documentation highlights the use of hot stones; potatoes; lard, and lye, up to modern day methods. But why is afro hair so fragile?

Research shows that essentially while Caucasian, Asian, African hair have the same make-up, the structure of the proteins in black hair differ somewhat. Proteins are the building blocks of hair providing rigidity, elasticity and strength. Together with water, these determine the overall mechanical properties of hair. However, with afro there are three points worth bearing in mind.
Cystine
African American hair consists of a reduced percentage of cystine, a protein synonymous with the hair diseases where the hair is extremely fragile and frays.
Irregularity

Black hair proteins are also laid down in an irregular fashion. This occurs deep inside the follicle bulb within the scalp and also determines the tightness of the curl. Basically, the tighter the curl, the weaker the hair. In addition, this irregularity creates weak spots all along the shaft of the hair.

Ellipsoid Follicles
Black hair grows from ellipsoidal follicles as opposed to the oval shape of Caucasian/Asian hair.  In essence this means that the stresses working over the hair also attribute to splitting.
As you can see, Type 4B hair is designed primarily to grow outwards for protection, not downwards.

However, there are many methods of combating the fragility.

For example conditioners can help enhance the appearance and texture of hair. There are many ingredients in conditioners for example, hydrolysed proteins such as wheat protein that have been shown, through studies, to penetrate the shaft and help strengthen the hair. A healthy balanced diet containing for example flaxseed oil, sufficient proteins and plenty of water will give you a head-start.

Hair Loss and Cancer: Top Hair Tips for Black Women.

Hair Loss and Cancer: Top Hair Tips for Black Women.
Hair loss in general can have a devastating affect on an individual, eroding your self esteem and confidence. Many women choose to cover up with wigs and for black women finding a wig texture resembling their natural hair is virtually impossible. While there are a multitude of retail outlets selling wigs, very few are able to understand or meet the unique need.

Providing insightful tips from a fellow sufferer may help you make more informed choices and help you avoid some of the hidden pitfalls.

Human Hair
Human hair wigs are extremely versatile. They can be tonged, straightened, washed and cut. However unless you buy a wig made of virgin hair, they often are not great quality and will shed and look dull very quickly if used everyday. This is because in manufacturing process the cortex is stripped so the hair does not have the same level of protection. The Yaki type hair tends to have a more natural texture but can be difficult to maintain.

Custom made wigs
Custom made wigs are expensive but provide a tailor made fit and tend to last longer. In some instances, the professional can also provide you with a more natural texture wig as opposed to European or Asian hair straight looking hair.  If however you would prefer a more permanent solution, investigate a hair replacement system. Salons which provide this option are very few and far between, but they do exist.
Synthetic wigs

Synthetic wigs tend to be much lighter and cooler to wear and are available in great variety of styles and textures. They are easy to wash, as long as you use the correct products, and dry very quickly. In addition, they tend to be reasonably priced. On the downside, everyday wear causes them to frizz at the ends very quickly and you need to be careful when wearing them near heat, such as ovens and candles. It is worth remembering that if you’re buying a shorter style synthetic wig, this will help avoid the frizzy end problem for longer, as you do not get as much friction with the wig ends rubbing against clothes, on your back or shoulder.

A mid- range pricing is probably the best option, because whatever you buy it will frizz eventually and the very cheap wigs tend to become tangled and look knotty almost immediately.

Whatever option you choose, it is important to find a good adhesive to secure the wig and one which can easily be removed, so as to avoid damage to your own hair and scalp.

 Finally, getting the right option for you is crucial. Get it right, and you can feel and look great, and even gain more confidence than before losing your hair.

Black Hair Care. Tips To Prevent Further Breakage Today

Black Hair Care. Tips To Prevent Further Breakage Today
Does your hair breakage fill you with dismay?  Do you dread seeing broken ends on your product containers?

Hair breakage can cause both social and psychological trauma, especially when you've spent oodles of time and money on the latest treatments, followed instructions avidly and dutifully taken care of your hair.
Most people with damaged hair buy treatment products that are filled with chemicals that for the most part function solely to keep the product stable, pretty and smelling sweet. With only a fraction of ingredients geared towards treating damaged hair many people have no idea about the effects of the remaining chemicals. So if you've stopped combing your hair out of desperation and before you go for the big chop, read on.

Shampoos
Most shampoos consist approximately of 35% surfactants, which allow both the oils and the water to mix.  Good wetting technique and gentle massaging Assisi the surfactants to release dirt trapped in the hair.
Surfactants such as ammonium lauryl sulphate often occur as the main ingredient and possess the ability to clean exceptionally well.  However beware when choosing. Similar to sodium lauryl sulphate, this particular ingredient is extremely harsh and one of many known irritants that can aggravate the scalp and further encourage dry hair.

Elasticity and porosity tests are simple indicators that will tell you whether you have chosen the right shampoo. Examine the condition of your hair after shampooing and before applying the conditioner. For example, perform a strand test by running your fingers down the hair shaft. Do your fingers slide easily to the ends or is there resistance? If you are finding resistance, try a shampoo with a change of detergent.
Conditioners

Hair conditioners cannot reconstruct damaged hair, but they can make it feel more manageable and improve the appearance.  Damaged hair is more porous absorbing more conditioner, so taking the right choice can make all the difference.  For example, minute proteins such as hydrolyzed wheat protein, penetrate the cortex and successfully increase the elasticity of the hair, whereas amino silicones, such as dimethicone are believed to be more effective on relaxer damaged hair. This is because amino silicones are able to bond tightly to the hair shaft providing additional strength. However beware, they are so good at their jobs, they tend to be notorious for product build-up, creating dull, lifeless hair.  So again rather than guessing, apply a simple strand test after conditioning  to assess what type of conditioner your hair really needs.

Black hair is extremely fragile but there are several ways to help reduce your breakage.  Start learning to assess your hair and read your labels today.  Know what you are using on your hair and how it affects your success.